KEY WEST

Key West has always been an alter- native refuge for artists and thespians; a warm, palm-fringed oasis for anyone who doesn't quite fit into the uptight routines of everyday American life. Now, it's more like an over-priced vacation themepark teeming with tourists and college kids. However, the quirky charm is still lingering among the quiet streets of old Southern homes and sidewalk cafes featuring Key Lime pie.

The southermost point of mainland America and the very tip of the Florida Keys, the Conch Republic has been a soulful retreat for the likes of Ernest Hemingway (and his six-toed cats) and former President Truman. They probably watched the same sun set from Mallory Square as the hordes of tourists today. It's a surreal island.